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RE: Anyone using 5w-40 for winter camping?
Mooney
I have used since 10K miles of break in, Schaffers 9000 5w40 full synthetic oil and an Oilguard by-pass oil filter. The advantages of full synthetics are their wider operating temps over Dino oil. They also have larger additive packages which means they can last longer which will allow longer oil change intervals. Adding a QUALITY by-pass oil filter will allow you to extend your oil change interval out to 15,000 miles or more. I have tested my oil with 15,000 miles on it and it tested better than 5,000 mile Motorcraft 15w40 without the by-pass filter. I feel this oil will go to 25,000 miles and quite possibly out to 30,000 miles before needing to be changed.
Yes I said I am pretty sure my oil will only need to be changed once every 30,000 miles.
I have hauled our TC in +112*F down to -9*F on the same Schaffers 5w40 synthetic oil. I was not plugged in in the cold weather. Schaffers costs about $3.65/qrt the last time I bought some and this was in bulk to get the free shipping. I split it with a fellow Ford owner. Even still I will not have to change oil all that often. Perhaps early 2010.:) About once every 2 1/2 years.
By-pass filters filter the oil far better than full flow stock oil filters from the factory do. Factory oil filters filter down to 20-25 microns. By-pass filters can filter down to 1-2 microns. This level of filtering allows nearly zero wear. I am certain I will go 1 million miles on this engine. Obviously mechanical wear is the least of my concerns. Electronics and accessories are now this engines weak links. :)
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AllenF
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09/19/08 02:09pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Filon vs. Gelcoat
When I was thinking of building my own custom TC I had samples of several materials one of which is the Filon supreme. Very thick and heavy but it had no luan or paper backer which IMO was much better. It was very expensive.
The reason Eagle Cap uses gelcoated fiberglass is cost. Once you have the molds it is very economical to build your own panels and endcaps for little more than the materials involved and the labor to spray it in the molds and remove them. If the gelcoat is done properly the part would need little to no buffing.
IMO IF IT IS DONE WELL gelcoat is the way to go. For the final assurance I would paint it with a durable truck paint and it should last for years with little more than a wash and dry.
De-lamination in TC's seems to be due to water leaks that soak the paper or wood backing. With pure fiberglass/gelcoat panels laminated to the bear Aluminum frame members there should not be any de-lamination ever. Even if water were to get inside. However, if the frame welds crack and it starts to flex then the wall panels will develop cracks which in turn will leak and the cost to repair is pretty high.
One drawback to gelcoated fiberglass is yellowing due to sun light exposure. This adds to the value of painting the TC. I am considering having our TC painted. The cost will be rather high as I will be using very durable paint. I estimate at least $2K but I bet it gets closer to $4K. If it were done at the factory to the panels before assembly it would be much better and cheaper too.
Polyester resin will absorb water. In boat hulls this leads to blistering. A newer product being used is epoxy resin which so far is not blistering like the poly resins have. It is more money but seems to hold up better. Polyester resin should be fine for a TC application as our TC's are not floating in water like boat hulls do.
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AllenF
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09/19/08 01:41pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Acrylic thermo-pane EURO windows
Eagle Cap has offered dual pane GLASS windows for years. While plastic may be lighter they scratch easily and over time will get those fine cracks from the sun.
We have them on our 1150 slide and they never sweat like the single pane units do. I had to order them but I think they come on all units now.
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AllenF
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08/25/08 11:42am |
Truck Campers
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RE: FORD TRUCK OWNERS ONLY NO BRAND WAR
Our 05 is without a doubt the best truck I have ever owned, 45,000 miles and counting. In fact I have been a GM truck and car owner all my life and this truck has Ford EARNING my business. I bought my wife a 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid AWD. It too has been awesome. IMO Ford trucks are where it's at.
As for TC hauling the Ford is hands down the most capable. I love the power stock and the auto trans is every bit as good if not better than the Allison. Our 05 delivers at near max GVW of 12,850 lbs between 11.5-12.5 mpg. My best loaded tank was 19.75 mpg :O Sure wish I knew what I did on that one. :) All numbers are hand calculated.
The brakes and power are the best in class for 05 and so is the frame thickness. I hate the 2008 styling, looks like a Japanese design to me. I prefer a more conservative design.
The other draw back to the 08 is the added price hit to the diesel option along with it's lower mpg's. It is, however, much quieter.
I would look for a low mileage 2005-2007 dually or I would get the 2008 F-450. Used, I would need a CLEAN oasis report before I bought it.
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AllenF
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08/21/08 08:46am |
Truck Campers
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RE: What happens when you ignore your Exterior Cauking Duties...
I find it sad to continue to see this type of water damage being all too common.
It is even more sad when WE here think it is just part of the RV experience and thus something that must be put up with.
All RV manufacturers know that their sealing type and method is seriously flawed. Hence the "you must check the caulked areas every 6 months" line.
If they use such a poor caulk or construction method why don't they step up and redesign this terminally flawed design???
Obviously the type of caulking used is inferior as Lance and others think it is only good for 6 months. While Mike is more than satisfied with Lance and takes one for the Lance team, we all know that in all fairness Lance has some level of culpability here as their slapped together side wall and nose design is really poorly done. As Mike described, basically it is butted up and screwed and stapled and then the 1/4 inch gap is covered over with a molding that is then caulked with stuff that will last at best 6 months.
This is the state of the art in nearly every RV and we say here that WE goofed up because WE did not do our part. Well I contend that WE MAY BE part of the problem because WE ACCEPTED this design and maintenence headache.
Water and wood is no good. Filon is no better due to the paper backing and once it gets wet it will delaminate. Fiberglass is better when laminated directly to the aluminum frame members, but not great if the frame is only welded on one side and that one side is the outside and the weld must be ground down smooth so the siding can be laminated to the frame. This construction method is sooo obviously flawed it confounds me as to how stupid the RV builders are. Common sense is anything but common in the RV industry.
Eternabond seems to be the single best method for the roof at the roof nose seam. And the roof end cap seam. It is also the best for the roof vents and skylites. If you can stand the look it could be run over the metal strips that bond the sides to the end caps too. This would provide a lasting seal that remains flexible and is large enough to move with the TC as it goes down the road.
Having a sealtech test or as was done here by some putting a blower in a vent and pressurizing the TC to expose leaks is the single best method to find the source of fatal leaks.
Using a high quality sealant is critical. I would run as fast as you can from the******that lance or other RV builders use as in their own words it will only be good for 6 months.
I like Proflex RV as it can be applied over itself if a crack develops. This means you will save a ton of time repairing a new crack. I would monitor it closely at first and then once you have a feel for how long it will hold up then you will know how often to look the TC over. I would NEVER let it go more than 1 year. I would like to think we could do it once and right and never need to check it for 10+ years. But this is not the case. Since the frame flexes a good bit it makes the seams crack open and then the leaking starts.
Bottom line.....
ALL RV's ARE CHEAPLY DESIGNED AND BUILT, NO MATTER THE BUILDER OR THE COST.
YOU CAN ONLY RELY ON THE RV TO LAST A FEW YEARS UNATTENDED.
NEVER TAKE POSSESION OF AN RV UNTIL IT HAS BEEN SEALTECH TESTED AND IS SHOWN TO NOT LEAK.
IF IT HAS BEEN IN AN WET ENVIORNMENT LONG, OR IS USED, AND IS FOUND TO HAVE LEAKS DO NOT BUY IT.
NEVER HAVE AN CABOVER FRONT WINDOW.
LOOK YOUR RV OVER AT LEAST ONCE A YEAR.
Better to do this at the beginning of the camping season and the end of the camping season.
Sadly since we are stuck with this poorly built stuff WE have to look out for our own best interests. It sucks but that is just the way it is
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AllenF
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07/25/08 10:29am |
Truck Campers
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RE: ford turbo stuck
Turbos are covered under the 5yr-100K mile warranty. If you are out of warranty then this fix will be close to $2K.
Makes one want to go it alone.
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AllenF
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06/09/08 10:04am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Happyjack maintaince
These CRAPPYJACS are known for grinding, clicking and jamming. One even fell while driving down the highway. While you can call them and they will fix them you have to get them to them and figure out how you will support the TC while they are back to the factory. Next set will be RIECO's as these are rated for more weight and I don't like to support folks that know they have a CRAPPYJAC design and still do nothing to fix it. OH they are good about saying YOU did something wrong or "We never heard of this happening before". :(
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AllenF
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05/20/08 09:12am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Large Area Has De-lamination
IIRC from posts here in the past Arctic Fox uses a thin paper between the filon/fiberglass and the frame and once this paper gets wet it delaminates. Sadly this is how nearly all filon TC's are made and why they delaminate because they all leak or will leak sooner or later.
Common sense would see the flawed thinking in this regard but in the RV world common sense is one of the rarest things.
IIRC it will cost about $2-3K to fix it and if it leaks again you will be out the same.
Knowing the condition of your TC seals/siding will save you grief, damage, and most of all money. Check your seals at least twice a year and if you live where it is wet a lot more often will allow you to catch a potential leak before it gets too big. The design of all TC's is very sorry when it comes to leaks. It took 50 years for the industry to figure out that the cabover windows were a problem. Finally now most don't come with windows there.
If you are handy you could fix it yourself or you could look into your RV insurance they can and do help if your covered.
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AllenF
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05/20/08 09:02am |
Truck Campers
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RE: TC ROT ! ! !
Yea and those Lance particle board or chip board wings are notorious for rot.
Seems like seals and caulking last about 6 months after inspection. Once repaired with a good quality caulking they can last longer but I think a complete once over every 5-6 months should find any cracked caulking. Once cracks are found these need to be fixed ASAP. If you keep on top of it you will be fine. If you choose to not do anything then store it INSIDE as this is the only way you can forget about it and not get damage IMO.
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AllenF
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05/13/08 06:56pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: O.K. so now im intrested is synthetic oil and by pass system
While some will never see the math I used it is cheaper to go the way I went than to do it the old factory way. In the 50's all engine's used by-pass oil filtering and not until later did the full flow filter come into vogue. IMO shearing in the Ford is as important and issue as anything else as it forces oil changes sooner than the oil additive package would require.
For those who want awesome full synthetic oil just call Schaffers and buy it in free shipping quantities. It is 3 cases of 6 gallons per case and if you split it with a friend you can do 2 changes with 1 gallon left over. The last time it was $3.65 per qrt.
Is oil changes every 5K worse than what I am doing? Not that much it just costs a lot more and involves a lot more time and wasted oil resources. To each his own.
I prefer driving to oil changes every time. How about you?
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AllenF
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04/27/08 05:50pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: O.K. so now im intrested is synthetic oil and by pass system
I have the Oilguard system using their larger filter and container EPS 60 IIRC. I also use Schaffers 9000 5w40 full synthetic oil. I have gone to 15K miles on the oil and will extend to 20K and test. I think it may go out to 30K.
Schaffers does not shear down after 15K. This is important as I experience out side temps from -9*F to +120*F with these types of temps a lower 5 w oil is best. but 40 W is needed when towing in the higher temps of summer.
As for cost I think having the cleanest oil and being able to extend the oil change intervals will save money and not in to long of a time either. Schaffers costs about $3.65 a QRT. This is great!
If you use the factory method then NEVER go beyond 5K using Motorcraft oil as it's additive package is spent by then. it has also sheared down to 30w.
The Oilguard system will filter down to about 1 micron. The Ford full flow filter goes down to about 25 microns. Anything less than 3 microns is preferred as the gap on the bearing journals is about 3 microns.
Using full synthetics is also better in extended oil change intervals as well.
It is easy to figure if it pays for itself by simple math.
Lets figure 60K miles and 5K changes using factory oil and filters. That is 12 changes versus 3 at the worst case for my system. Ford gets about $125/change and you can do it for about $60. $60x 12 =$720
16 qrts of Schaffers 9000 5w40 @ $3.65/qrt =$58.40
eps 60 filter=$28.00
ford filter= $11.00
That's about $98.00 after the initial cost of the kit which comes with 1 filter.I paid less than what they cost now but lets say $450 for the kit. That makes the factory oil changes done at home cost about $720.00 and the Oilgaurd system cost about $670.00 since the first change will need the kit and 1 ford filter and the oil only. Add about $20.00x 3 to test and in 60K miles it breaks even.
So I think you would be dumb to not do it IMO. For me not having to crawl under the truck 3 times a year is worth it alone. An added benefit is the oil is not imported and I use much less as I change much less. Add to all this the fact the the oil is better and the filtration is better and you see why I do it.
Long haul truckers do this too and they add life to there engines. I expect wear to be minimal over 400k-500k. If so then this engine will go for 30-40 years at 15K/year. Longer than most will keep it and I will be to old to enjoy it too. :)
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AllenF
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04/25/08 06:49pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Problems with My Brand New Lance Camper.. Is this normal?
I don't own a Lance and I did not read all 7 pages of this thread. But the one issue with the drawer and it not locking so you adjusted it and now when the slide is out it is sticking. This one concerns me because if I read it right you MAY have a frame distortion going on and this is not something I would be comfortable with. The slide out should be the same in or out and the drawer should work the same also. Since it is not I would look into what is changing and why. Since you are under warranty NOW is the time to fix it not later IMO.
While you have a good sized list sadly these types of things are rampant in the RV industry.
If Lance were REALLY concerned then they would catch this stuff BEFORE it left their plant and not encourage the buyer to bring it back to them on his dime to fix what should have been right to begin with.
Is it me or this type of business model backwards or broken?
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AllenF
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04/02/08 03:47pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Diesel vs. Propane and other upgrade ideas
Almost all of the diesel powered appliances are designed for the boating/marine industry. Since Marine vessels are always at sea level there is no concern for the lower air density that the RV folks find in the mountains.
Here is the rub when using a marine type product it tends to carbon up due to the thinner air at higher elevations. Running richer then causes reliability issues and greater maintenance is required. Some of these appliances are stating that they are not designed for the RV industry and are not recommended for RV use.
I toyed with this for some time and while most of the propane powered devices can be substituted with diesel fired ones the stove is the one I would leave propane powered. The Wallas unit is very spendy and IMO not worth the added cost and maintenance. Propane is less money than diesel too for now. All in all I would wait until the RV stuff broke before I would swap it out as this would give you the best use of money spent.
Less holes are better but you will need to think where and when you will use the TC and in what kinds of weather you will use it. I like the Maxx fans and one will do fine if it is in the right place. Just crack windows where a breeze is wanted and the rest is taken care of. They work in the rain too. You will still need a vent above the stove so a range hood is a must IMO. Bathroom sky lights are often there to add head room. If you don't need the head room then I would forgo one as they are awful Heat and cool wasters. If you don't need Ac then you will save money and about 100 lbs.
If you boondock and plan on more than a couple of days you will need lots of battery storage and solar and or a genny. The fridge will use far more power than a propane refer so you need to plan for this.
This should get you started.
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AllenF
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03/28/08 10:29am |
Truck Campers
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RE: My LED Bulb Upgrade (with pics)
When I get one I will measure the lumens for both and post the results.
Thank you much
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AllenF
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03/14/08 11:01am |
Truck Campers
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RE: What will you add/replace/eliminate in your TC next?
Not yet sure what the rebate will go for but I can tell you this, whatever it is it will be made in America by Americans. Sending my stimulus package to China or Saudi Arabia doesn't make much sense to me.
I like Sleepy's idea. It's not my anniversary and wouldn't be the 45th (Congratulations Mr. & Mrs. Sleepy :)) anyway but what the hell. LEDs sound good to me.
Let us know when you find something that's made in America by Americans - I'm not sure that there is anything anymore. And don't say hamburgers. Where I live they are definitely not made by Americans.
Regards.
That would be those AWESOME Ford trucks. :W China is just biding their time until they have driven the local competition off the market and then you watch as the prices rise and the quality goes south.
I think China has figured a way to ship all their toxic waste to us and get us to pay for the privilege. It is called made in China goods. :M
I heard a quote once that went like this "If you want the world to change you have to act the way you want it to be".
All we can do is our small part but if we all do a little what a big deal it becomes.
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AllenF
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03/14/08 10:58am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Anyone installed or considered a tankless hot water htr?
I thought about it but IF I were to go this way I estimate that the grey tank would fill up first and the water would go next and the propane last as I would not be able to get the DW out of the shower.
Now when the water turns cooler she is out in a heart beat.
Some times things are best the way they are. :)
Factor in the added cost which would be pretty high and it is not very practical, IMO.
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AllenF
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03/13/08 02:47pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: My LED Bulb Upgrade (with pics)
Nice to have more than one option. :)
Now as for brightness....
How do these compare to the bulbs they replace?
Are they 1/2 as bright or 1/4? What is their lumen rating? I like the option of a warm white version. But I would like a fair amount of light also.
Thanks for any ?'s answered.
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AllenF
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03/13/08 02:15pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Yellowed camper plastic
The early poster may have been me. I live in sunny So.Cal and these cheaper plastics get beat up by the sun real fast. By painting the plastics you not only deal with the yellow you also protect the plastic from becoming brittle and thus lengthen their service life which saves time and money in the long run.
While I agree that these plastic parts should not yellow the bottom line is our TC's are made to just get past the 2 year warranty. With this in mind cheap plastic that yellow is the least of our worries. These cheap plastic parts save the manufacturer money which he is more than happy to keep for his bottom line.
Someone will figure it out and offer better plastics and use it as a selling point. Looks like no one has the smarts yet. :(
They are happy with the status quo, which is really nothing more than sticking it to their customer er ah us.
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AllenF
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03/05/08 08:50am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Arctic Fox Customer Service Response
Nice to see someone is home to answer your questions.
However I noticed your TC is about 2 years old. I don't know about you but I think if their caulking job died in such a short time I would not be too keen to apply the same stuff on it again. IMO their choice was not a good one so taking their advice would not return very good results. My $.02.
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AllenF
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03/05/08 08:36am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Fun/Easy fridge project (picture added)
If you don't mind seeing a small thin wire routed out the side or bottom of the door you will not need to damage the refer by drilling into it. I do it this way and find knowing what is going on in the inside is very helpful. Especially in the summer heat.
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AllenF
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03/05/08 08:25am |
Truck Campers
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